The Ins and Outs from Cucculelli Shaheen’s NYFW AW25

“Lush details, downtown silhouette, and subversive edge” is how brand Cucculelli Shaheen describes itself, and simultaneously was an accurate synopsis of Collection 19, “Memento Fiori.” Presented at NYFW for AW25, this collection showcased 38 looks, fusing together signature brand elements with a boho-rocker influence. Occurring at Racket NYC, a live music venue, was only fitting for Cucculelli Shaheen as San Francisco based psychedelic rock band The Spyrals performed live during the double-staged runway. 

Based in New York City, the brand was founded in 2016 by couple Anna Rose Shaheen and Anthony Cucculelli. According to the website, “the two met working in Downtown NYC in the mid-aughts, while a stint designing in Florence, Italy amplified their design partnership.” 

The brand stayed true to their design language with ornate detailing and high-quality fabric and continued to breathe new, rebellious, life into their garments. We left inspired from the show and while nothing is perfect on the runway (except, maybe, Westwood Fall 1993 or Mugler Spring 1999), we’ve broken down some of the highlights and lowlights from “Memento Fiori”.  

Butter Yellow and Mellow Pastels (IN)

Amongst a palette of mostly sheer black, white or neutral looks, pastels especially popped when sprinkled throughout this collection, and with a good notion that the colors are bound to make a larger appearance this season. Although fluctuating a bit, butter yellow is up 54% this month, according to Data But Make It Fashion on Instagram. Take the pendant medallion dress and matching cape for instance, or the chantilly lace sleeved dress. Although a bit darker than the exact butter yellow, these are a subtle nod to the light and airy color, with a slightly deeper, on-brand twist. 

WGSN also noted that pastels in general were on the rise with 2025 Oscars red carpet looks, and an overall 3.2% increase year over year (YoY) at the women’s S/S 25 catwalks. Although not my personal favorite, pieces like the blush vegan leather trousers would be perfectly practical for transitioning into the upcoming seasons.  

In talks with pastels, Cucculelli is also known for its’ bridal wear – perhaps for more nontraditional brides, but bridal nonetheless. The champagne constellation dress was a personal favorite that strayed from the conventional pearly whites, while others like the cactus rose lace high-low dress deviated from tradition in shape and cut, as opposed to color. All in all, the brand’s lighter looks here proved a win in my book. 

Cutting Above The Rest (IN)

Cuculleli Shaheen seems to have been utilizing unique cuts and shapes in their looks, notably, since SS24’s “American Venus” (hello crystal grid dress!). The same rings true for “Memento Fiori.” Most notably, the second look in the collection, worn by model Shahrazad Memetjan, which featured the Memento Fiori Vest, Trouser and Fil Coupé tulle top made of black wool and silk. The garments include swirling floral and medallion elements, multi-color threadwork, and intricate beading. The top has a cutaway back, flattered and paired nicely by the vest. According to the brand, this was a look of “904 hours of hand work” and by far the best showcase of craftsmanship, and cuts inspired by subversive designs. 

Others, like the lace fil coupé caped top and various dresses including sheer panels or racer lace-up necklines showcase visually interesting shapes in their pieces, something that will continue to trend as the weather warms up and consumers focus on having unique, staple pieces in their wardrobe. 

Red Can Only Be So Bold (OUT)

This may be controversial so brace yourself – I think red is overplayed. Done. Over it. Although throughout January and February red was up 149% in time for F1, Lunar New Year, Valentine’s Day, you name it, I think we’ll see a bit of a breather on this color and let icy blues or greener, earthy tones take center stage. In this collection, we see just a couple looks poke at the bold tone, with a wine leather jacket and a bright red vegan leather trouser, but these pieces are just too “on the nose.”  

Go With The Flow… (IN)

Overall the silhouettes Cuculleli curated for this collection are, simply put, stunning. Every model’s chic runway strut showcased the high-low shapes, flowing sleeves, and wide leg pants seamlessly. Some silhouettes like the trousers on the second look, feel like an homage to 70s bell bottoms with an elevated notch up in fabric and feel. Again, pulling a more elevated version of the pirate’s poet shirt, is the white silk caped top, paired with black straight leg vegan leather trousers. Much of the collection operates under this formula – juxtaposing dreamy free-spirit with grungy rebellion. We’re here for it!

…But Not The Fringe (OUT)

Suede, wooden wedges and unfortunately, the 60s-inspired fringe trimmings are all making a comeback. Boho-chic can be done very well and even be executed true to the early aughts in a campy way, but it can also feel forced. Cucculelli’s collection showcases a great example of both. The brown vegan leather macrame top with excessive fringe, paired with an ochre velvet East-West jacket and vegan leather trousers, feels authentic to the collection, creating a visually interesting silhouette that is harmonious and sexy, while still being a little chaotic. However the vegan leather macrame skirt, styled with amore lace racer top and snakeskin knee-high boots pushes past feeling like an 80s rocker/60s hippie fusion and more so like a teenager haphazardly going out to party in 2004. 

Dominating Details (IN)

Model Karlijn Kusters opened the show wearing a black, partly sheer, long-sleeve dress, showcasing the hours of dedication and craftsmanship put into building the collection’s world. Embroidery on the waistline featured a circular emblem, with the words “Memento Fiori” stitched along the edges. The same gold, circular pattern continues down the sides and lower half of the dress, alongside detailed pink, green and red floral beading. Micro-pearls line the waistline, hipline, and vertically down the lower half of the dress. Tulle subtly peeks out around the neckline. At the end of the day, details like this will always be a timeless importance to fashion design. Without it, what’s the point? Where’s the artisanal approach? Where’s the expression? The inspiration?  

These details paired with jewelry by Alexis Bittar, Twiggy-esque eye makeup by Baltasar Gonzalez Pinel for MAC Cosmetics, and hair by Mandee Tauber for Oribe, Memento Fiori truly was a curio of life in the past, present and future. Even down to the details in the photos, like leaving a peek of the guitar amp in the main runway photography is an ode to the duo’s influences. 

Drawing inspirations from music, mythology, classical art, and New York City itself is evident on the catwalk. From concerts to galas, from fantasy to dark night mischief, Cucculelli Shaheen embedded up-and-coming trends into their brand and inspirations intentionally and, mostly orderly. The couple, who previously worked with the likes of Emilio Pucci, Oscar De La Renta, Calvin Klein, Yigal Azrouël, and Roberto Cavalli, showcased 38 fast-paced, refreshed, flowing, and timeless looks, ready to be worn for any season of the year. 

All photos courtesy of the brand Cucculelli Shaheen. All photos by Anthony Batista.