Enter The Portal of Alexis Bittar: Dystopia Meets Elegant Maximalism

Robotic, entrancing shadows danced across the exposed industrial brick walls at Performance Space NY. A slight smoky aura fluttered under the warm spotlights, setting the tone for “A Portal”—Alexis Bittar’s first-ever New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025 presentation.

The performative jewelry and handbag presentation featured a woman sitting center stage in nude undergarments at her vanity, a mirrorless frame acting as the portal between nostalgia and futurism. Seated in an ’80s-reminiscent set designed by Ruby Elmhirst, the older woman moved reflectively, instinctively showcasing different jewelry pieces by taking them on and off.

Surrounding her were latex “humanoid AI attendants” moving mechanically throughout the scene—fixing curtains, vacuuming and talking on a landline. These distorted, nearly faceless figures were all seen wearing various pieces from the new collection, as well as moving handbags throughout the scene. But they weren’t just there to move products.

Rather, these human-like figures emphasized a woman’s place in society through the past, present and future. Domestic rituals played out around the main subject while she focused on her own physical appearance, her solitude and the inevitable aging process happening before her. A nostalgic advertisement played throughout the space while the woman strangely licked her lips, repeating, “Moisture, wet, protective sunscreen to keep your lips very soft, very moist, very wet, and I think that’s very wonderful.”

The collection sparkled under spotlights throughout the room inside glass vitrines with pink shag rug underneath, matching the set design. It included maximalist organic shapes, mixed metals and signature elements of lucite throughout. Personal favorites included a silver corset cuff bracelet and an asymmetrical gold and silver necklace with an oversized metal floral emblem front and center. The sound of time ticking, crackling radio static and ambient eerie music echoed throughout the space as guests observed the presentation.

“I think it’s unexpected and necessary, it’s so needed, especially for New York Fashion Week. It’s amazing to see people do something edgy and not safe,” jewelry designer and guest Austin James Smith said. “I think no one particular piece stands out, it’s the way it all works together, especially with the latex. I think Alexis has done a really great job of curating a visual language with his pieces.”

The handbags being showcased varied in textures and colors but still played with subtle experimentation in some form. Take the classic red leather clutch, finished with gold shears as the handle, or the silver iridescent purse with material scrunched at the center, complemented by two diamond accents. One purse that was passed throughout the scene and on display was a classic clutch with a fur body and a ribbed, rounded acrylic top.

“I think it’s very well executed because the show is great, the pieces are great, the styling is done in a way where the pieces pop but still flow really well together,” musician and guest Nastiya Kai said. “It builds tension, but it’s not disturbing. I love it, and it makes you think as well.”

Directed by Alexis Bittar himself, “A Portal” reaffirmed the brand’s positioning as an eccentric accessories designer within the luxury space, with an added element of depth and intellectualism beyond fashion.

From the music to the choreography—including the main subject holding gold lucite necklaces to frame her face while a liminal, dreamy synth played—observers were forced to consider concepts larger than Alexis Bittar, larger than fashion as a whole. As explained by the brand in its press release, “She is alone but content. Is this solitude by design or consequence?” While showcasing statement pieces that can stand the test of time through mixed materials and shapes, the concept was distinctive but uncanny.

All in all, it was an ephemeral yet alarming presentation that brought a larger discussion of aging, isolation, technology and vanity to the forefront of guests’ minds—and quite the kickoff for Day Two of NYFW.